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Please read all instructions before beginning your Home Run Fence installation.

1. Hold a long string on the rope (at least the length of your desired arc) on the front edge of home plate.

2. Walk the string off in the outfield, placing various temporary paint marks (or stakes) on the foul lines, and at numerous points in the outfield so that the desired arc is easily seen.

3. Set first baseplate just left of left field foul line so that the cup holding the first fence leg is aligned exactly on the foul line.

4. Stand up first fence frame and insert the left leg of the frame into the cup on the baseplate so that the edge of the fence is exactly aligned on the left field line (Note: If you desire to continue to fencing so that it ties into the chain link extending behind the dugouts, disregard this instruction. It is only for venues that plan to run the fence from foul line to foul line).

5. Now follow the arc you have made and position the next baseplate on the right side of the fence frame. The distance should be approximately 9’ 8”. The position of the baseplate cup will determine the correct placement of the second baseplate.

6. Follow this process from left field to right until all baseplates are positioned, and the fence is correctly aligned on both the left field and right field foul lines. (Your arc may have to be slightly modified to get the rightmost fence panel aligned exactly on the right field line).

7. The standard steel baseplates shipped with 4.5’ fences weigh approximately 38 lbs. Our 6’ fences utilize 53 lb. baseplates. In high wind conditions, supplemental sandbags may be required. We ship our fences with our standard 70% mesh product. Should your venue experience persistent high wind conditions, please call our office to discuss an exchange of your mesh for a mesh that blocks less wind.

8. Velcro is supplied with each order to help limit the movement at the tops of the fence frames. Cut the Velcro in strips of 8 to 10” and attach it to both frames, 6 to 8” from the tops of the frames.

9. If your fence came with optional springs, position springs on top of the post that is welded to the baseplate. In some cases, the springs may need to be rotated to properly position the frame. The springs are designed to reduce the risk of injury, when a player collides with the frame. Due to this design, the springs will tend to bend in a strong breeze. If this attribute of the fence leads to frustration, please
contact our office to discuss an exchange of your mesh for a mesh that blocks less wind. It is important to keep the springs out of standing water. If left for a prolonged period, the springs will tned to
weaken, rust and break, over time.

10. If your fence came with optional top pad, the pads are ‘scored’ but not completely open out of the box. You’ll need to have a box cutter or sharp knife to completely open the pad so that it can be pressed on
the top rail of the fence. The top pad length is 8 ft., which allows you to overlay the pads from frame to frame, which are 9’8”. This overlay allows for a tight, finished look along the top edge of the fence. From
time to time it may be necessary to zip-tie the top pads to the fence, especially in strong winds. Clear or yellow zip-ties are available by calling our office.

NOTE: Please call 480-460-2647 if you have any questions regarding your Home Run Fence installation.